Spring-clean your closet

Since YSL’s classic ‘Le Smoking’, they never go out of style. The difference now is that it’s not just a jacket and pants or skirt: it’s about working around the tux to let it dominate but also create a dialogue with its sartorial companions.

For spring:
Keep the fabrics it sits with light and floaty, or even sheer. Layer it with interesting asymmetric shaped skirts or pants and show off some skin.

For fall: 
Pair it with leather, wool, cashmere, and flannel while retaining asymmetrical shapes.

Above, from left: Isabel Marant, Roberto Cavalli, Tom Ford, Tom Ford, Haider Ackermann, Marques'Almeida

Trenchcoat 2.0
This is another classic that YSL’s muse Catherine Deneuve popularized in cult call-girl movie Belle du Jour. To prevent it from looking cheap and utilitarian, avoid matte beige and keep it long, with multiple abstracted, reworked shapes. 

For spring:
A lightweight one can make a fabulous dress. A leather one will make you sweaty so avoid in high summer but relish it in fall. 

For fall: 
Layer black or beige cashmere over a lightweight trench and wear wool underneath. A leather trench which was too hot for summer works great now. Avoid short skirts and bare legs.

Above, from left: Miu Miu, Victoria Beckham, Sies Marjan, Dries Van Noten, Loewe, Céline

Sportswear and athleisure show no signs of abating in their runway domination. Their popularity means designers are being forced to reinvent them in chic ways.

For spring:
Create a more conceptual look that’s within the athleisure aesthetic by pairing them with graphic, form-fitting tops.

For fall:
For a casual look, pair leggings with an oversized jacket. Transition to an evening ensemble with a chic blazer, which creates a slim silhouette.

Above, from left: Versus Versace, Versace, Alexander Wang, Tommy Hilfiger, Christian Dior, Fenty x Puma

A print that never dates or loses admirers, it is also one of the hardest to wear. Separates keep it tamed.

For spring:
From voluminous lightweight shirts to modern line jackets, the motif should be the it piece of your look. The key is to opt for contrasting shapes using separates.

For fall:
To create a structured and modern look, layer animal prints with neutral or darker colors.

Above, from left: Halpern, Proenza Schouler, Balenciaga, Roberto Cavalli, Prada, Saint Laurent

Another one of our grandmother’s staples is ready for reinvention. Suddenly in an age of everything being bared on social media, a little formality and mystery seem more seductive than ever.

For spring:
Stand out from the crowd by wearing them with a dress at urban art openings and cocktail parties. Bonus points for revealing some upper arm and shoulder. 

For fall:
Let the sleeve bleed into the glove, playing a game of hide and seek. Never do leather-on-leather for fear of a dominatrix look.

Above, from left: Erdem, Peter Pilotto, Moschino, Off-White, Missoni, Marc Jacobs

Cowboy-inspired footwear has been creeping up on us over the past couple seasons, and has shedded its theatricality. The new styles are tinged with rebellion and rock chic attitude. Keep the rest of the look clean.

For spring:
Use the boots to liven up your minimalist warm-weather wardrobe pieces. They are the hero of the look. Go easy on turquoise and tassels.

For fall:
Pair them with thick black tights and a miniskirt or loose cropped pants and a cocoon coat.